Gellért Baths
Of the 40 baths and outdoor pools in Budapest, the Gellért baths, around the back of the famous Gellért Hotel, are the most prominent and elegant. The indoor pool is a firm favourite with photographers and a familiar images of Hungary, consistently upstaging the huge and equally impressive entrance hall. But there is much more to the Gellért than just the Art Nouveau architecture. Slip into the separate men’s and women's warm pools, saunas and steam rooms for Turkish-style relaxation, or enjoy the sunshine and splendour of the outside pools, complete with a wave machine for the kids – and the big kids.
Lukács Baths
More functional than the extravagant Szécheny or Gellért baths, the Lukács (near the Buda side of Margit híd) is less frequented by foreign tourists, but no less hot, sweaty and relaxing. The extensive roof terrace is that little bit closer to the sun, the outdoor swimming pool is refreshingly cool and the second interior courtyard offers powerful bubble and jet massage.
Széchenyi Baths
No visit to Hősők tere (Heroes’ Square) is complete without a wind-down in the Széchenyi baths in the Városliget (City Park). The complex, one of the largest in Europe, boasts the usual network of hot tubs and steam rooms, but the outdoor pools in the enormous neo-Baroque courtyard are the main attraction, and are particularly atmospheric in the winter months. The warmer pool is better suited to a chat, a soak and a game of chess, while the second offers alternate bubble massage and a bizarre aquatic roundabout that brings a smile to faces of all ages. Only committed swimmers, equipped with the obligatory swimming caps, take to the colder water in the central pool.
Rudas Baths
The Rudas, near the Buda bridgehead of Erzsébet híd, is a men-only baths (although the outdoor pool is open to both sexes) built by the Turkish Pasha of Buda in the 16th century. Its soothing turquoise octagonal pool makes it all the more relaxing – and helps you come to terms with wearing nothing but a skimpy apron. Open Monday to Friday 06-20, Saturday and Sunday 06-13.
Grand and Thermal Hotel Margitsziget
Nestled in the greenery of Margitsziget, the Grand is less expensive and better to look at, but all the spas and services are in the Thermal. Fortunately, both buildings are connected by an underground heated corridor. Attractions include indoor and outdoor pools, a sun terrace, a whirlpool, a Jacuzzi, a thermal bath, a sauna, a steam room, an aroma cabin and a solarium. Fitness trainers and masseurs are on hand, and an exhaustive range of relaxation, health and dental treatments are also available. Visitors are also welcome from the street.
Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget**** superior
Classical building on magnificent Margaret Island next to the Thermal Hotel.
Danubius Thermal Hotel Margitsziget**** superior
One of Europe's top Health Spas. On the North end of the magnificent Margaret Island.
From bar to bath
Guardian, January 12, 2005
Nick Hall finds hidden nightspots, thermal spas, and solemn reminders of the communist era as he visits Budapest
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Where the cakes are big and the baths are hot
The Observer, May 30, 2004
Putting the memories of a bawdy bath house encounter behind him, Tim Moore returns to Budapest and finds the only thing to fear in the pool is defeat by a bearded chess player
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